IMPORTANT! Cleaning fur at home is only possible if it is not too dirty! Cleaning can be done in the following ways:
When planning to put away a fur item for the summer, inspect it. If dry cleaning or repairs are required, it is better to do it in the spring, because... Dry cleaning not only removes dirt, but also provides prevention against insect pests: in the spring and summer, moth larvae and carpet beetles become active.
The solvent used for dry cleaning is a fairly aggressive environment for fur. The product can withstand 4-6 chemical cleanings, so wear your fur carefully to resort to this procedure as rarely as possible. Contact only specialized fur dry cleaners. Do not clean fur using “folk” remedies.
When planning to put away a fur item for the summer, inspect it. If dry cleaning or repairs are required, it is better to do it in the spring, because... Dry cleaning not only removes dirt, but also provides prevention against insect pests: in the spring and summer, moth larvae and carpet beetles become active.
The solvent used for dry cleaning is a fairly aggressive environment for fur. The product can withstand 4-6 chemical cleanings, so wear your fur carefully to resort to this procedure as rarely as possible. Contact only specialized fur dry cleaners. Do not clean fur using “folk” remedies.
- Fur garments (sheepskin coats, sheepskin coats) should be cleaned with a stiff clothes brush. Stains can be erased with a light rubber eraser or a dry crust of white bread. Wipe heavily soiled areas with the following composition: 20 g of glycerin, 20 g of ammonia, 5 g of borax per 0.5 liter of water. Products with a glossy (varnish) finish are cleaned with a cloth moistened with water.
- Apply a mixture of equal amounts of table vinegar, alcohol and water to the fur item using a brush or foam rubber. Then wipe the fur with a clean piece of cloth.
- You can use this recipe: put rye or wheat bran in a metal bowl and put it on the fire. Continuously stir the mixture with your hand until it becomes hot. Scatter the hot bran over the fur and then collect it with a brush. After cleaning, shake and comb the fur. This method can be used to clean light astrakhan fur or white rabbit fur, but astrakhan fur does not need to be combed.
- The fur of beaver, otter, and mole is cleaned with dry hot sand. Lay out on the table, sprinkle with sand and wipe with your palm. Dirty sand is shaken off, and clean sand is added until the product becomes completely clean, that is, the palm no longer becomes dirty.
- Gasoline is good for cleaning fur from fat, especially in the area of cuffs and collar. Moisten a foam sponge or cloth with clean gasoline and wipe the fur with it, and long-haired fur with a fresh stain should be wiped along the pile, and short-haired fur with an old stain should be wiped against the pile.
- A solution of ammonia with table salt will help remove grease stains - 1 teaspoon of ammonia and 3 teaspoons of salt per 0.5 liters of water, or you can use hair shampoos or detergents for wool, silk and synthetic fabrics (1 tablespoon per glass water). After finishing the treatment, the surface of the fur is wiped repeatedly with a swab soaked in clean water and wrung out, avoiding getting the fur wet, and dried. The fur should not be rubbed too vigorously to avoid tearing it.
- A couple more recipes for removing stains from fur: equal parts of denatured alcohol and ammonia, or 1 part of ammonia, 3 parts of table salt and 50 parts of water. The wiped fur should be blotted with a clean linen towel, knocked out and shaken.
- A very dusty fur item is laid out on a wet sheet, fur side down, and knocked out.
- Large fur products can be cleaned with sawdust or wheat bran, for which they sprinkle small areas of the fur products with them and rub them thoroughly with their hands. This is how all the fur is gradually cleaned, then the sawdust or bran is shaken off. Heavily soiled furs are cleaned 2-3 times. Sawdust must be sifted before use. Do not use sawdust from coniferous trees containing resin.
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